Monday, May 12, 2008

I made enemies today

It went something like this… we arrived at the Indian Embassy at the time they had told us to come. It was the largest gathering of foreigners we have seen – all waiting outside the gated doors… many had a number previously guaranteeing that they would enter the visa fort… but we didn’t…

So I went up to the armed guards and put on the charm… It must be noted that all the guards were Nepali. At some point, the armed guard came back to us in the back of the line and just stood there with his hands behind his back… I realized this must be for bribes, but I don’t know how to do such a thing. As he turned to me, I looked at him with a certain shy helplessness and told him “listen, I don’t know how this works – but we really need to get our visa today” – he smiled and led us past all the foreigners to the next armed guys – with whom I chatted a bit telling them our situation and they also let us through… I could hear behind us... 'well I guess speaking Nepali helps'... It was interesting since as soon as I explained that Clayton was my husband to the door guards, their eyes lit up and they shook his hand with heartfelt sincerity - we don't know what that was really - we wondered whether it was because they thought he would have control on the bribe money or something... but then again...

As we returned after a long wait to get the first phase of the visa process, I stopped at the guys again - thinking that they would want a 'tip' - but no... they just wanted to chat...

It was like a failed attempt at getting or giving a bribe... oh well...

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