Pills

10:35 am on Wednesday Morning - Ibuprofen for potential fever and cold symptoms
8:35 am on Wednesday Morning - Metron for giardia
6:30 am on Wednesday Morning - Cold FX to combat impending cold
9:30 pm on Tuesday Night - Metron for giardia, melatonin for 10 hour jetlag
2:00 pm on Tuesday - Metron for giardia
6:00 am on Tuesday - Metron for giardia
9:30 pm on Monday Night - Metron for giardia, melatonin for 10 hour jetlag, and gravol for nausea
2:00 pm on Monday - Metron for giardia and gravol for nausea

Sunday night - arrival in Canada after 27 hours of travel being ill throughout.
27 hours earlier - chills, cold sweats, nausea and vomiting as started our trip and as we checked-in at the airport in India...

Welcome Home! More when I feel better.

I made enemies today

It went something like this… we arrived at the Indian Embassy at the time they had told us to come. It was the largest gathering of foreigners we have seen – all waiting outside the gated doors… many had a number previously guaranteeing that they would enter the visa fort… but we didn’t…

So I went up to the armed guards and put on the charm… It must be noted that all the guards were Nepali. At some point, the armed guard came back to us in the back of the line and just stood there with his hands behind his back… I realized this must be for bribes, but I don’t know how to do such a thing. As he turned to me, I looked at him with a certain shy helplessness and told him “listen, I don’t know how this works – but we really need to get our visa today” – he smiled and led us past all the foreigners to the next armed guys – with whom I chatted a bit telling them our situation and they also let us through… I could hear behind us... 'well I guess speaking Nepali helps'... It was interesting since as soon as I explained that Clayton was my husband to the door guards, their eyes lit up and they shook his hand with heartfelt sincerity - we don't know what that was really - we wondered whether it was because they thought he would have control on the bribe money or something... but then again...

As we returned after a long wait to get the first phase of the visa process, I stopped at the guys again - thinking that they would want a 'tip' - but no... they just wanted to chat...

It was like a failed attempt at getting or giving a bribe... oh well...

Minus-1

Today, I am minus-1… Yeap, only a year before the big 30… Clayton and I just finished a lovely breakfast and I am now the proud owner of a color-changing pendant that I will proudly wear as my minus-1 birthday gift.

Pokhara is treating us well… relaxing days of walking, reading, boating, and just chilling. Today, we are heading to the Shangri-la, one of the nicest hotels in Pokhara for a lounging day beside the pool. The walls are so high surrounding the complex that I can even wear my bikini. It has also been great to hang around with Carol, as this will be the last time we spend time with her in Nepal. Tomorrow, we head back to Kathmandu and start the final craze of packing, getting a suit fitted, having dinner with friends, and getting the apartment spotless for the next renter.

Well better be off - there is much celebrating to be had...

Smells like holiday

All is done - I did the big presentation on my results on Thursday - handed in my paper to NFHP on Friday - got 'evaluated' - even sent some job applications today... Now it's time to get some necessary stuff for a visit to the village and a trip to Pokhara to relax and spend time with Carol... AHHH You can just imagine me relaxing by the lake with a coffee soothing me and a good book (not on qualitative research or private health providers)... 2 weeks till we head home...

A thing of Beauty!

Have a 21 day-trial with MindJet Mind Manager... and I think I have fallen in love. This is hot off the press and not quite polished... but isn't it just a beautiful sight - Am having a hard time separating myself from it.

So yes... I guess I have a streak of geekiness... but wouldn't you if you could create this?

My Somewhat Quirky Wife

It's not fair: Catherine-Anne just isn't as quirky as I am. That's the official line anyway, but I did manage to sneak the following seven quirks past the censors.

1) Geekiness. Catherine-Anne is not a geek, she insists. Now, she *is* addicted to Battlestar Galactica, Star Trek: Deep Space Nine, Facebook, and Email. And she was ecstatic at having discovered the Style Manager in Word and the Auto-Update feature in particular. But she's "not a geek".

2) Linguistic skills. Catherine-Anne speaks four languages fluently, but unfortunately those little barriers that most of us erect between different languages are a little more permeable for her. Which is charming most of the time, but not, for example, when you're using Spanish as a private language in Nepal, and random phrases start emerging in Nepali by accident. Particularly when that phrase is about how you really want to buy a certain item and will pay any price. Grrr.

3) Performance anxiety. Due to a set of circumstances for which she is only partially to blame, Catherine-Anne's first two attempts to make rice in my presence ended in inedible failure. Since then, she has been psychologically unable to make rice for supper. So now that's my job.

4) Self-evaluation. Not her strong suit, I'm afraid. On those occasions when she gets a fabulous mark on a paper, she is utterly convinced that the teacher gave her the mark "just to be nice". Because they do that kind of thing in postgraduate studies.

5) Curiosity. Whenever an expression flits across my face that she doesn't understand, the question will not drop until a satisfactory answer is given or 72 hours have passed, whichever comes first. We've even decided that her middle name is "Penguin" in honor of her preternatural curiosity.

6) "Keel you over". As in, "have a snack to keel you over until dinner". Catherine-Anne has an honestly impressive English vocabulary, but her command of idioms and expressions is a little spotty. Now we all make mistakes, but she seems genuinely surprised each time she makes the same one again.

7) Pill swallowing. For whatever (hopefully genetically recessive) reasons, Catherine-Anne has trouble swallowing pills. Not just big ones either. She has to take a mouthful of water, and then tilt her head back and shake it like a bird swallowing a big fish. Amusing, but weird.

Well, only three weeks until we're in Canada! With a 50+ item to do list before we leave, things are going to be a little busy, but we will manage to squeeze in the better part of a week in Pokhara enjoying some sun and relaxation. Can't wait to see everyone in Toronto, Montreal, Quebec City, Waterloo and Winnipeg!!!

A feverish Cry...

Our compound has a lovely couple who care for the area and maintain safety. They are always followed by a little boy with the quirkiest voice, Subash their grandson. Subash has become the source of much laughs in our household and makes his presence known to us by his cries and by banging on our door.

One morning, our bathroom floor got flooded as we did our wash - we checked outside and we found that someone, with little wee hands, had used our water pipe to hide rocks and even a bottle of gentian violet. Subash's mischievous face was priceless as he realized he got caught.

Subash is a perfect example of why I'm here... He has had recurrent respiratory infections, fever, and diarrhea in the last few months. His grandmother brings him to the private clinic and returns with yet another set of meds.

I'm presently writing my research paper - trying to highlight the main findings that we obtained from our 26 interviews. It is clear that private health providers don't follow best practices... they give unecessary medications, they don't assess well, they offer services that they are not trained for... but then again, they are there... The need is great, and some do respond well, mostly considering their limited education.

The final goal is to better understand how private providers treat children under 5... It's interesting since we've touched upon some of the factors that influence their practice: marketing forces, financial status of patients, beliefs about meds, etc... I'm finding it hard because I am always second-guessing my conclusions - hoping I am being faithful to the data.

This paper is one tiny step forward towards figuring out how NFHP and the government can engage the private sector for improving child health outcomes. Interesting to think that maybe, one day, this will help a little Subash...

My Quirky Husband

Much time has been spent together in the last few months. Clayton couldn’t escape to yet another dancing event… and I wasn’t bustling around town with coffee engagements or on the phone… so we have learned a lot about each other.

It seems that some ‘other’ woman (sorry Sarah – but until I meet you you’re another woman!) has previously listed some Clayton’s quirks (http://www.claytronics.org/faults.htm) and in it she said wisely that “his to-be wife must be warned - God help the one who has a lifetime of this!”. For all of Clayton's friends and family - we can all agree that Quirky could be Clayton's middle name - Here is just a taste...

Ten 'Clayton' Quirks, as per his Loving Wife

1- In our quite honestly well-distributed household tasks, I do the laundry. This activity does not include folding following the wash – we do that together. The interesting thing I have come to realize is that Clayton only fishes out his clothes and folds them. When my clothes are the only ones left, he throws them my way and feels happy to have contributed. I on the other hand, fold whatever is in reach… and how does he come to the conclusion that towels/kitchen clothes/sheets are my clothes… one will never know…

2- Clayton has urgent physical pains/needs that come upon him in a flash. For example, out of nowhere, he could have the worst headache ever or needs to pee so bad…This latter serious critical need will not stop him from googling on the mating habits of the proboscis monkey, premillennial theology in western Texas, or a new 25 inch computer screen.

3- Clayton hates… and I mean hates… putting away leftovers. I honestly don’t get it.

4- When he awakes, Clayton can barely walk straight, hits walls and corners, and recently, even fell to the ground.

5- But there is more to the morning Clayton I have come to laugh at. As his eyes see the light of day, his blood is causing him to loath all that he sees. I know to quickly give him what he needs....no not that.....something sweet like Mango juice… and then after 5 minutes, the worlds seems like a better place to my lovely husband.

6- When he wants the bigger share of chocolate… he says “mama-bear” pointing to me, and then “papa-bear” pointing to himself, thus permiting his self-indulgence

7- Almost all of you know that Clayton has a somewhat surprising obsession with dogs… but I hope you have been protected from his canine growling biting snarling displays of affection. I am sometimes surprised when I'm typing that some unknown animal is gnawing at my shoulder in need of attention.

8- Clayton after imbibing in maybe half a glass of wine becomes almost embarrassingly self-disclosing… a perfect opportunity for a girlfriend (potential wife) to get all the dirt he usually keeps concealed! It has served me well!

9- Yes, I admit it, I can be sometimes annoying and a tease. In response to this, Clayton has perfected name calling… well I don’t know if calling his wife "sushi-for-brains" or "poo-head" really reflects his intellectual skills.

10- He keeps all… and I mean all… his email ever written and ever received… so that if he really wants to know what an ex wrote to him 9 years ago – it’s always available…arghhh

So that is my brief outline of some of Clayton’s quirks… now I haven’t even described all the quirks I have witnessed when he’s frustrated with customer service, or when something doesn’t smell right… oh well… One thing is certain, this present list will bring forth his wrath… and I’m sure he will have to compensate by writing some not-so-true comments about me. One thing is sure whatever he will write will have to be wittier, funnier, and more to the point... since well his competitiveness will require it of him and he must prove that I'm too wordy! So please realize the hyperbole this will produce.

Political Bewilderment

It’s 4h30 pm and we can still hear cries of celebration here and there. As we left for our weekly Saturday breakfast, we were stopped mid-way as a large gathering of Maoists were celebrating their potential victory. The red flags, the red powder smeared on all passerbyers, and the cheers were all quite disconcerting for me.

At this point in time, it seems the Maoists are on their way to a plurality, if not a majority. Final results nationwide will take weeks… but the merriment and discontent of many have begun.

Our breakfast plans had to shift as crossing a mob is not quite our idea of a relaxing and safe Saturday… As I sipped my coffee, a flood of emotions took me by surprise. I’m scared… I don’t know how to reconcile the fact that only four years ago I lived under curfews, bombs, and general unrest because of the Maoists – deemed a terrorist group by many… and now they may be the party in power. How can one explain that the Maoist have had a landslide victory in Dang when they have caused so much havoc? Children went missing, forced conscription, deaths… I’m bewildered. How will a new group who only weeks ago were making bizarrely optimistic projections in the event of victory and thinly veiled threats should they lose run a whole nation? It will all remain to be seen…

One thing is sure – the king is toast.

p.s. Photo borrowed from Reuters - we didn't get that close!

Gasp!

Early results show the Maoists to be doing better than expected... They are leading in 40% of Kathmandu ridings, tied with Nepali Congress, the incumbents. This is surprising, since Kathmandu isn't exactly a Maoist stronghold.

Who knew?

The blue stain

We just went on a 10-minute walk to explore our neighborhood on Election Day. The roads are empty – only authorized vehicles are allowed – UN, Election Monitoring, ambulances etc… The only noise this morning was the gathering of our neighbor’s family as they all went together to vote and the cries of a variety of animals in the zoo, which are usually muffled by car horns. At the local poling posts, foreign faces with large badges are surveying. After voting, people have a blue mark on their right thumb indicating that they fulfilled their civic duty. There have been some scattered reports of problems in Western Nepal. Maoist groups took control today of some poling stations in the hopes of filtering the voters. Yesterday, one major candidate from Surkhet was assassinated, postponing the elections there for one week. National results will be streaming in for more than a week for sure – making for interesting events to come.

Election Fever

So tomorrow is the big election! Much has happened in the 12 years since the last one. A royal massacre, an insurgency, a peace process and a demoted king. But there is much hope that tomorrow will be a turning point. Once the dust has settled from the election, the royalty’s future will be decided and the Maoists will hopefully be fully politically integrated.

The run-up to the election has been a bit rough at points. A blockade of the entire south of the country (resolved by an agreement), some kidnapping, assaulting and assassination of political candidates, and a few small bombs. Not yet a Canadian-style election, but not Zimbabwe either.

Nepal’s symbology is blissfully unaware of Europe’s, so the following sign makes perfect sense here:

Hammer and sickle is, of course, the Maoist symbol, and everyone here votes by stamping a swastika next to the symbol of their favourite party.

There may be election fever, but it’s not from a hangover. Alcohol sales are banned for the week, and no cars can drive tomorrow. It’s also possible that there will be some communication cuts. But we’re not in any real danger.

The interesting time might actually be next week when the Maoists discover that they only got 20-30% of the vote, which is actually a pretty good showing in a country with oodles of parties. The problem is that the political wing has been telling the military wing that they’ll be taking power. There are even (soon to be embarrassing) posters proclaiming Prachanda as Nepal’s first, future president. Hopefully all the parties will accept the results without too much of a fuss. I mean, Jimmy Carter’s even here to make sure that the voting is on the up-and-up.

We’ll keep you posted!

fashion mistake

I know, I know… this is seriously not to my standards of fashion – especially for a Quebecoise who abhors white socks… but when you only have a 30-second trot to the gym and you can’t wear your runners… what is a girl to do? So we are settling back into Kathmandu – Clayton even convinced me to go to the gym – not quite the best idea on a semi-empty stomach except for an evening beer.

I have been postponing a blog entry, mostly since there is SO much on my mind that I don’t know where to start… maybe that explains my need for an evening beer!... so I will just keep this one to my day-to-day now.

I’m in the Qualitative analysis phase… with 25 interviews done, all in Nepali, it is keeping me busy. Clayton has written a program to cluster my codes together in Excel – he’s not only a cutie, he’s useful! I’ve listened to all the interviews, filled in the notes, and have started coding. It’s almost fun. This picture exemplifies my qualitative state!

After our travels in Western Nepal, it seems our perspective has turned slightly towards home. We miss you! We are especially sad to not be able to attend Rachel and Shayne’s wedding this Sunday. We wish you the best!

As for us, there are 6 weeks before we leave Nepal, 5 weeks before I turn the fateful 29, 4 weeks before I must produce the completed results of my research, 2 weeks till our engagement anniversary, and 1 week before the Nepal elections. And a partridge in a peartree.

Ghorahi Impressions

So we're back from Ghorahi (and in Catherine-Anne's case, one month away from Kathmandu), only a little worse for wear. Last Sunday, I flew out to Nepalgunj to meet my cutie after 3 full weeks apart. It was a fantastic contrast to spend the next 168 hours being no more than 10 meters away from each other.

Now we're back at work, though both a bit under the weather. I've got a bad case of sialolithiasis of the Wharton's duct, which translates into a painful, asymmetrical, chipmunk-like bulge every time I eat, or even think of, tasty foods. Fun.

But our time in Ghorahi was really special for me. It was my big chance to see where Catherine-Anne lived and worked for a year. After hearing about her adventures since we first met, actually going there was like seeing the movie after reading the book: different than you had imagined, and with incidental music. We toured the hospital, met the family that she is close to, ate lots of dal-bhat, and had a really good time.

Having seen the hospital, I have a better sense of how hard the conditions were under which Catherine-Anne had to work. Basic supply shortages, grungy wards, and some truly shiftless employees mixed in with the staff. We also toured the Displaced People's camps where Catherine-Anne taught basic hygiene to the kids using games, stories and creative puzzles. It was nice to see people from all over town warmly welcoming her three years later and remembering what she did for them.

We're also in the process of reevaluating our post-Nepal travel plans. We had planned to go to India from May 15-25, but recently clued in to the fact that the temperature in the north will go as high as 52°C. So that part of our trip will be canceled, and we're still figuring out whether to go straight home, stay a few days longer here, or stop somewhere else.

On a bright note, Carol Scovil is visiting us for the weekend! It's really nice to hear more about her adventures in Pokhara, and to see a friend from our 'other' life. Tonight is a dinner out at Red Dingo, a local Aussie restaurant which cooks a mean steak.

Coming Home...

Kathmandu welcomed us back with its pestilent air yesterday night – you can really feel the difference when coming from being away for a month in the field! Many blog entries will probably be written about our last week together in Ghorahi – oh… reunions are ‘magical’!... We are ok – getting past some nasty bugs and downright exhaustion. We'll be in touch soon.

My Nepali shamed by a two-year old

His name is Unique. He’s the cutest thing and wrapped me around his little finger with his requests to have me come back to see him and calling me ‘aunty’ all the time. I met Unique at Geeta’s place where I spent last night.

A nursing friend of mine, she lives away from the building madness of Ghorahi… with the cowshed beside her home, the water pipe 5 minutes away, and her wonderful family who are always so welcoming. We had a girly evening – talking about men and her wedding planned for in a couple of months – the identity of the suitor is not set… but people are looking for a suitable match all around the country. We watched part of a Hindi soap-opera (the main plot is how the darker-skinned older sister can’t get married because everyone wants to marry the fair-skinned sister – insightful to say the least!), reminisced about when I was here and painted our nails. We ate on the roof with the stars displaying their best lights… it was a taste of peace.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t get the best sleep – hard wooden bed without a mattress didn’t quite do. I awoke with my hipbones telling me it was enough! An afternoon nap was in order today as I’m starting yet another cold. Finished my paper for the University, and will try to send it off… but internet has been shut off in Ghorahi for the last 24 hours.

Since my paper took longer than expected, I must hurry for work tomorrow and Friday.
Did I mention that I may be a chaperone this weekend for the first meeting between a potential bride and groom? Someone has suggested a match for my friend and since she is fatherless and of low caste… I will be lending her my ‘foreign power’ as we meet the in-laws and the young man on Saturday in Nepal... It is sure to be interesting... and I'm completely out of my depths for this one!

Complexities of coming home

I cannot even describe how I'm feeling right now - it's overwhelming... to be back in Ghorahi is a real shock... to see people I love and hear good news, but also tragic news. Three years of absence takes its toll on many lives. To smell the hospital again... to be recognized as the 'one' who made the burn patients' ward... to see that things haven't really changed... and to feel as I walked in the ward that something just came to a close. I had this weird feeling of closure about the hospital, a bewilderment that I spent a year struggling to do something, and happy that I'm no longer in that position.

At the same time, things have changed. Internet cafes have sprung up here and there, new buildings are ALL OVER! and baby procreation continues... but then again, pasta and toilet paper are still not available in Ghorahi!

Another realization is that I was right: Kathmandu is not Nepal. I'm feeling the first pangs of cultural shock in my own semi-home - the freedom that people have to comment on 'how much I've lost my Nepali!', or on how my skin reacts to the sun... or else my weight! Thank goodness they all say I look the same, because that would have the end of me if everyone started calling me fat... Everyone though is conspiring to make me gain a few pounds, made solely of rice and lentils!

I'm also struggling with relationships - people believing that I'm here for them alone... friends in need but in very complex situations that I cannot fully comprehend... my every action is significant and I must be slow to act... At this point, I realize I must stop, pray and reflect as to what my role is... Your prayers would be greatly appreciated.

This week will include many dhalbhat meals - morning and evening... work on my interviews during the day... prenatal lessons with my 15 year-old 'sister-in-law' as I call her... chai tea throughout... and lots of missing Clayton. When I pick him up in Nepalgunj on Sunday, I won't let him out of my sight!

I'm going to assassinate the dog next door

Who woke me up early this morning (and every morning) with incessant barking. I couldn't sleep until after 3am, and my trip to the local pharmacy yesterday to buy sleeping pills ended with my purchase of Alprazolam after I vetoed the first suggestion of Valium. Once google informed me that I was, in fact, in possession of Xanax, I decided to take my chances on sleep the natural way.

Anyway, the dog. I'm going away tomorrow to Bangladesh, so perhaps I shouldn't bother. But I couldn't help contemplating my modus operandi:

Theobromine: ingredient in chocolate, fatal to dogs. 10 kg dog. LD50 = 300mg/kg => 3g of theobromine. Quality dark chocolate contains 10g/kg. 300 grams of chocolate needed. 3 chocolate bars = 120*3 Nrp = $6 CDN = peace&quiet

I miss Catherine-Anne.

Speaking of whom, her homecoming to Ghorahi hasn't been exactly as she imagined. It's been pretty hard, actually. The family that she was close to isn't doing so well. A mother with depression, a son who has a pregnant 15-year-old wife, and not enough money for food for days at a time. Not good...

But I just spoke with my cutie at length. Nice to hear her voice. 8 days to go.

P.S. I've decided that I can't kill a dog after all. They're too cute and I'm too nice.

18 out of well... more than 24!

Greetings from beautiful Surkhet - a Hills district in Mid-Western Nepal. Many interviews have been done - out in beautiful green communities with difficult roads to master and uncertain foods! Yesterday, I even passed by a Maoist emcampment - a place where the fighting Maoist have been placed to do... well... nothing... but they get a compensation and they don't take up their arms. It was weird to be in a community with people walking around in Maoist gear! How a country can change in 4 years!

Interviews - well we've been doing about three a day - some feel good, some feel bad, some feel useless. Sometimes, I wonder whether I will be able to deal with all the material collected in Nepali! Headaches are a daily challenge and being misunderstood is a frequent frustration. Today, Indu is off outside of Surkhet, while I'm doing some alone - at least three. Two are already done and they went ok. (YEAH!) Every night, I'm frantically typing up the interview notes... I have a one day lag which I will catch up on today...

As soon as I arrived in Surkhet, I called Shirley and we almost ran to meet each other in the middle of the bazar. She spent lots of time with me in Ghorahi, I went to see her in England when she turned 50, and she is the OBS surgeon that travels all over Nepal making women smile with healthy babies and healthy uteruses... (or lack thereof - the removal of a 'fallen' uterus is a common procedure - I won't go into the details!).. We chatted a bit and we have plans for a sunset seat and dinner tomorrow night.

The plan for the next few days is as follows - another interview or two today - notes writing and editing - tomorrow, another 3 interviews and then the car and my colleague head back to Nepalgunj. I will stay for a bit to finish off the notes and then head back on my own to Nepalgunj. After at least another 3 interviews there, I will visit some NFHP field work and then head to GHORAHI! Unfortunately, it won't be all fun and games - before Clayton meets me, I need to write a paper for U of T, and finish all my notes while listening to over 18 hours of interviews.

Beware: mushiness ahead!

Albeit being in the west is a needed break from Kathmandu, having Clayton sicky and not within arms length is hard. Yesterday, after jumping off the land-rover feeling somewhat nauseated and exhausted, I went to the nearby phone shop and called Clayton. A little booth with a window was my simil-privacy... I was at my wits end and wanted to cuddle up to Clayton and have a good cry - well, all the people in the shop could see me talk to Clayton and since I was visible, everyone stared... the WHOLE time... I tried to turn and make myself less visible... but then the observers reshuffled to get a better view... ARGH! After 20 minutes, it was just too much. A Carlsberg beer was quickly ordered and I drank it ALONE on the roof of the hotel! I miss my love and I'm counting the days. At least, with the pace of our interviews, I'm starting to sleep even without him... insomnia followed me around at first... but now I can't have the luxury of insomnia!

Being sort of single

So with Catherine-Anne away for 3 weeks, my lifestyle has undergone some substantial changes. If I were in Toronto, of course, I'd be a busy beaver: dancing, seeing friends and attending quirky yet hip events. But, since I'm in Kathmandu with only one real friend in the city, things are a touch different.

High points

• Playing soccer today at the highly guarded (and car-bomb proof) American Club and then going out for pints afterwards
• Increasing my billable hours by 30%
• Going to the gym every day (I vil be hyuuge!)
• Actually doing some reading outside of the bathroom

Low points

• Monday night: being sick, cold and alone in a dark house without electricity
• Having mild insomnia for 3 nights in a row
• Not having Catherine-Anne to talk to! I end up talking to myself as I wander around.

15 more days to go. But the last 7 will be easier, as I'll be in Dhaka, Bagladesh for a UBS conference. And working lots and lots. Then off to Ghorahi to see where C-A lived for a year!

Eight interviews out of 24!

On Sunday morning, Clayton and I went to eat out at Red Dingo for breakfast. A foreigner we know told us that in Nepal, you should avoid any place that started with a B. or ended with a -gunj... well here I am in Nepalgunj, and heading to Biretnagar in Surkhet district within a few days! I would disagree with him though, since the Terai feels so much more familiar to me than the bustling life in Kathmandu.

Calls to prayer give a certain rhythm to daily life here in Nepalgunj. The Muslim population accounts for a significant portion of the city and mosques air their chanting calls throughout the day. I've come to call Clayton before bed when I hear the calls, not that I need a reminder to think of him. The prospect of three weeks without my love is honestly daunting! I'm having a hard time sleeping without him - which hopefully will end... caus' man do I need my sleep!

I arrived on Sunday afternoon and started interviewing private health providers (PHP) about their management of childhood illnesses at 7 am on Monday. We've had the privilege of having access to a land-rover to our travels here and there throughout the countryside. Yesterday, I thought the land-rover would topple due to the condition of the roads - bumpidy-bump all the way! We interviewed PHP in relatively remote areas where they dispense from mud huts... Fascinating...

Interviewing in Nepali is more than a challenge... it's exhausting and inefficient. I've recorded the interviews and will need to revisit them at length... lots of work is ahead of me...

Saturday, I'm heading up to Chinchu - a little town between Nepalgunj and Surkhet. We will stay there for 1-2 nights to do interviews, then up to Surkhet. Following that, back to Nepalgunj to finish off what is missing. A third of our interviews is already done!

I'm presently staying at an INF-friend's place. She's away and she has generously let me stay... it's a real blessing to have access to filtered water, to a phone to call Clayton every day, and a mosquito net. My old friends, the geckos, are there to haunt me though!

Much love to all! And hopefully Clayton will edit this today!!!! (he did...)

Achoo! *cough*, *cough*...

Maybe I shouldn’t write on my blog when I’m sick like a sneezy dog with nasal incontinence… maybe it would give the whole entry somewhat of a foggy grey haze if I were writing with muscle pains all over, a red irritated nose, and a very significantly shortened concentration span… but oh well, here I go.

I wanted to let everyone know of our plans for the next few weeks… because it is the cause of some concern for both of us.

I’m leaving alone for the Mid-West on Sunday for an indeterminate period of time (up to 3 weeks). Unfortunately, we weren’t able to get to Ghorahi due to new strikes. I will be staying in hotels, eating whatever food available, and missing Clayton like crazy. The purpose of the trip is to interview about 24 private health providers in two representative regions: a terai and hill district. This will be done in Nepali…Lord, Help Me!... and I will then be analyzing the information for NFHP and for U. of Toronto.

The situation in the Terai is unstable. The elections are approaching and academic deadlines are hovering over me. Prayers would be appreciated…

Six wonderful months*

(*except for a few very minor incidents, none of which are worth mentioning here)

Hint: kitchen + french toast + Catherine-Anne = smoke inhalation

Faces from other incarnations II

Last weekend we also got the chance to return to Gandaki Boarding School in Pokhara, where I taught 11 years ago. Way back then, I accepted an eight-month position with United Mission to Nepal teaching computer science to high school students at GBS. I had a fantastic, though occasionally interesting, time. Much to my delight, a surprisingly large number of my students have ended up in computer science, and some of them even credit me with having kindled their interest in the area. I also wrote a kickass 3-D, networked, multiplayer game called Hawk while I was there (in a scant 580 lines of C code!), but that’s another story.

So, being back. It was quite an emotional experience for me. That piece of my life felt like it was disconnected from the rest. Indeed, no one from my life in Canada had ever met anyone from my life there, and I felt a strange need for closure on the time.

Fortunately, a few of the teachers who are still there from 11 years ago remembered me, and one even remembered my last name and exactly which of his classes I had attended. “Clayton? As in Clayton Grassick?” (followed by exclamations about how different I look now). I don’t see it myself...

The campus, with the exception of some new buildings, looks pretty much identical and I was able to show Catherine-Anne where I had taught, played badminton, lived, and even the boys’ toilet in which I camped out to prevent students from cheating.

The most touching moment was when by chance I ran into my former didi (house help) who recognized me and who had spent 8 months cooking for me, doing my laundry, and cleaning. I told Catherine-Anne about her fantastic fried rice, and she reminisced about making pancakes for me (the making of which, incidentally, visibly depleted my bottle of cooking oil).

A very strange feeling to be back. One of the teachers invited us to attend the cultural event at the school that was planned for the next day, but I felt like it was enough just to see it one more time. And to have C-A see that part of my past.

Now it's my turn (with a little luck) to see Ghorahi later this week and experience her world.

Nepali men hitting on my wife

(I mean, wouldn't you?)

Fortunately, Nepali men are also on the shy side, so I didn't have to get medieval on anyone.

Nepali wedding receptions are fun, but the lack of dancing at this particular one was a definite minus. In fact, after you eat, the next order of business is to simply leave. Weird. But the florescent yellow plastic palm tree decoration consoled me immensely.

Critical journalism

Some of you have been worried about the security situation here with the blockade, strikes, shootings, fuel crisis and upcoming elections. I'm happy to report that you can set your mind at ease:

(click to see the full-size version)

In other news, some fuel trucks reached the capital city today. So there's hope at least for this particular piece of the crisis to be resolved.

Faces from other incarnations

Getting out of Kathmandu was needed this last weekend. Being unable to head to Ghorahi was a test of my emotional continence, but our trip to Pokhara has honestly fulfilled many of my hopes.
It was a time to relax, enjoy the restful feel of Lakeside – with a simple rooftop room for two nights, and seeing good friends again.

Seeing Carol, our friend from Toronto who will be working with INF for a year, was a highlight. Visiting her home and her work, and meeting her lovely roommate were great… She will be working as a biomedical engineer at Green Pastures (GP) Hospital – a very special hospital serving leprosy, spinal cord injury, and burn patients according to a profoundly Christian ethos. INF runs the hospital and I’ve transferred patients from Ghorahi to GP for their high quality care.

There were two people I was very touched to meet again at GP. First of all, this man who recognized me when I explained to him that I went to him to pray for my uncle Charlie when he was ill 4 years ago. He is a significant leader in the Christian church, mostly ministering to those who have lost much, such as he has from illness and seclusion. He was saddened to know that Charlie did eventually pass away, but I was encouraged to see and hear him tell me of all of the wonderful work he is doing.

The other special face is this lady – a blind and deaf woman who sang for my parents and me some 4 years ago – bringing tears to my mother’s eyes. When I asked her if she was good – she replied quickly ‘Bahini (little sister), I can’t hear, I can’t see… how can I be good?’ but then again, her smile was ever present and she sang as long as she remembered the words. I must say she is impressive at 85, in Nepal!

We also met up with Clive and Andrea, INF long-termers. In the past, they have diagnosed me of parasitical ills, they have supported me when my hospital was hit by Maoist/army clashes, they smuggled Emily and I into a grand hotel for some TLC around the pool… It was great to reconnect and to find that Clayton just clicked with them and it was simply a great visit.

P.S. The 225 tanks that were supposed to cross the border did NOT come... and the situation is getting bleaker. 48 hour waits at the petrol pumps... It's time to start thinking about stocking up...

Kathmandu under siege

The roads are a bit less crowded these last days. The taxi drivers are firm with their high prices. Many people have run out of cooking gas and I can't imagine living in Nepal without being able to cook rice! There are talks of food shortages if this is maintained.

Supposedly, about 80% of public transport vehicles are parked, unable to move. Our last taxi driver waited 12 hours to fill his tank. One of my friends "name-drops" to get the prized liquid for her car - there is sometimes no other way but to make them grovel because of the big names you know.

Last night, according to a Nepali minister, 225 fuel tankers crossed the Indian border, escorted by the army forces, and expected to start supplying gas and fuel today. Some ethnic groups are protesting all across the Terai, creating massive indefinite strikes all across the southern border. Wednesday was the Maoist 13 anniversary of the beginning of the war. Red flags were everywhere and big gatherings occurred.

Our plan was to head to Ghorahi for the weekend... but with the roads shut and everything closed off... we couldn't even get there. Instead, we're heading to Pokhara, after finding a bus company that still has fuel.

We were reflecting on the coming planned elections on April 10th. It seems that if Nepalis can't move around the valley due to the fuel shortages, are stuck in the valley due to massive strikes all across the country, can't access necessary food items because of shortages, and worst of all, can't cook rice... the country may well fall apart... We wait with bated breath.

Disempowering Husbandry

It's really all about power.

I had already noticed that people addressed Clayton more than me in our daily dealings, but it didn't get to me in the same way... probably because I could easily hold my own with my Nepali... but this weekend as we attended Nepali Church, my status as the wife of the interesting white man was clear.

I have come to realize that in some contexts, being a single white woman has more clout than being a white wife. Even though I was powerless in many ways in Ghorahi (being YOUNG and a NURSE were not to my advantage), at church, I was the interesting foreigner... and I probably got accustomed to being interesting.

This weekend, I was only but the wife of... It was troubling to me that I wasn't addressed and that my work was of limited interest... Imagine the interesting white man even works for the Bible Society... now that's a claim to fame! Now, let's not think I'm becoming bitter - it was just a bit of a shock...

But then again, I think back and realize that as the white wife, I've been given my fair share of power. Imagine the widow of low caste who has only produced daughters... imagine the leper with disfiguring signs of his illness... It is reassuring to me that, at times, the traditional power relations are being flattened out or even reversed. For example, my church in Ghorahi welcomes such disenfranchised people. When the preacher stands up and starts his message and you see he's the only one wearing shoes to cover his deformed feet and his hands are but stumps from leprosy, you realize that some things do change.

"Home Sweet Home"- The mosaic

Here is our little home...



Center picture: our home - we live in the bottom floor of this lovely house... We share the door with our neighbors upstairs.


From Top left clockwise:
1- Photo mosaic of our friends whom we miss
2- The kitchen of a gin-tonic fan
3- The gate - always kept safe by our guard
4- cuddling in our living room
5- hanging 'his' laundry yet again
6- trying to study Nepali - although this is a fake, since it's Clayton that is studying much more than I
7- Clayton's office window and the garden that he happily looks upon
8-office - the place where all his hard work happens

Newsy Bits

Some of the main stories in the news a few days back -

• Mass graves being unearthed with the help of a Finnish forensic investigator on the outskirts of Kathmandu. This supposedly contains the remains of many alleged Maoists that the army captured during the war.
• The Maoists have revived a former parallel structure that governed in certain regions during the war, the Revolutionary People’s Council… hummm
  Someone in Britain has asserted that they think Nepal’s elections planned on April 10th will go ahead…
• There was a raid on kidney traffickers in Nepal - as per the article, many poor Nepalis get either scammed into giving away their kidney, or get smuggled and drugged and wake up without one prized organ.
• The case of the missing Nepalis in Alabama
• Many notices about teacher’s strikes, bombs here and there, and political strike
  

I must say that the next few months will surely be interesting!

Liturgical Wednesday

Ash Wednesday always has a special Nepali feel for me. The act of smearing powder by someone in authority on one’s forehead resembles so much the Hindu tradition of tikka. As I was slowly heading back to Canada following my stay in Nepal 3 years ago, I attended the Ash Wednesday service at Notre-Dame-de-Paris. I remember how very profound it was for me to come out into the bustling streets of Paris with ash on my forehead, after having spent a year refusing to receive such marks… since it would have signified an affiliation with Hindu beliefs for Christians in Nepal’s Mid-Western Region.

Today, we attended a Catholic service near our home where we received this symbol of repentance and mortality. Clayton followed the service as any good Catholic would. Since I am less liturgically inclined, I tried to get its gist through the rather high religious vocabulary. At least I recognized the Lord’s Prayer!

Lent will be a little different than the last few years… no cutting out caffeine or chocolate… but instead of sacrifice, trying to add more… more time, more remembrance, more of Him.

American Life, Japanese Wife

Or so Nepalis often describe the ideal. The extended version is:

"American salary, Chinese food, Nepali life, Japanese wife"

But they have it all wrong.

"British salary, Thai food, San Diego weather, Canadian life, French-Canadian wife"

There we go. Much better.

Living next to the Jew

When I was describing the location of our flat to one of my ex-students, he said, “Oh! You live next to the Jew!” “The Jew?” “Yes, the Jew... Right next to you.”

Puzzled silence. “You know, the Jew. Where the animals are.”

“Ah! Right,” I said, finally clueing in.

But I’m still taken aback each time someone says it.

Conference Call

Imagine Health Promotion students from Yellowknife to Toronto to Zambia to Nepal having a class through Skype conferencing… my last 3 hours were done in class, well virtual class across many time-zones… Skype is wonderful!

Time for bed now!

NFHP and FCHV (don't you love acronyms!)

Female Community Health Volunteers – a cornerstone of Nepal’s primary health care…
They are voluntary health educators/promoters, community mobilizers, referral agents and community-based service providers in areas of health as per the trainings received. They promote the utilization of available health services and the adoption of preventive health practices among community members. They also play a supportive role in linking the community with available PHC services and to continue to play an important role related to family planning, maternal/neonatal health, child health and select infectious diseases at the community level.

There are about 50 000 women who play this role all around Nepal. They are one of the main reasons that Nepal’s coverage for vitamin A and deworming is so very high (90% and 84% respectively). As per Nepal’s 2005 Millenium Development Goals report, if the present progress continues, it seems likely that Nepal will achieve the MDG target for 2015 (something quite surprising worldwide!). This is even though Nepal remains in the top 5 countries for child mortality rates in the WHO South East Asian Region. These great strides in improving child mortality are honestly quite dependent on FCHV.

Nepal Family Health Program, where I work, is a main leader in working with FCHV. As I met with the project manager for this work yesterday, I learned about the significant lobbying work that these strong women are doing at this present time to get greater compensation from their involvement in public health in Nepal. (some are even threatening fasts till death as a last resort to get their voices heard!)

It’s a fascinating time and I can’t help but be impressed with how various partners engineered such a successful strategy, and with the women themselves who are making their voices heard.

The Smirk

I was looking at some colourful cotton in the corner of a fabric shop. One of the staff told me the price per meter. I decided to purchase two meters. He brings the roll over to the other corner and hands it to another staff member, who asks how much he told me it cost. As he heard the amount, a knowing smirk flashed upon his face… Ahh… being gypped once again!

Benzene Scented Adventures with Emily

It’s a recurrent fact that when she’s around, things happen. It has always been this way. Together, we have run out of a bar as a generalized brawl started. We searched for tigers in the jungle by foot with only walking sticks and an awareness of the closest tree to assist us. We’ve jumped off a cliff paragliding in the Himalayas. We’ve been together for major transitions: abrupt moves, language learning and marriage. We’ve been strong together as we were preyed upon by an unstable peeping-tom after curfew time. So when Emily arrived to visit for a few days, I knew it would be exciting.

On Wednesday, Kathmandu came to a halt. The students declared a ‘bandh’, or generalized strike. They were protesting the oil price hikes and used all means necessary to prevent any vehicles from moving – e.g. the health-damaging tire burning. No cars running and shops were closed… all over the city… I had taken the day off to enjoy it with my friend… but our plans were hampered. After a hefty breakfast nearby, we decided to start walking just to see if anything was open. We walked and walked. The air was full of the fumes of burning tires – the smog was thick and covered the sky.

We finally arrived closer to Thamel (the tourist area – our only hope for a place to rest and shop) and the cycle-rickshaws were out. We hoped on one and kept our eyes peeled for trouble. Having both lived in Nepal during the war, we’re very used to keeping away from crowds protesting this or that… so when we saw youth gathered ahead, we directed the rickshaw to shift paths and take a smaller lane. As he progressed, something happened… we’re not sure what instigated the flood of young men to move from where they were, but they started streaming down behind us. I looked back through the little curtain and said – Ok, Emily get off NOW! We jumped off and ran perpendicular to the crowd coming in our direction into a covered construction site… It was like a haven of peace with the workers bewildered by these two foreigners, one with notable flaming blond hair and the other complaining in Nepali about how there are always problems… The crowds finally dispersed and our rickshaw was waiting for us to bring us to our destination – a tourist restaurant apparently closed, but not if you know the other entrance – where we shared a refreshing beer. We walked for 1½ hours to get home – with my scarf on my nose, as nausea from the tires set in. Even if too short, Emily’s visit was a complete success and faithful to our growing legacy.

Village Stay

So, I seem to have returned alive and well from my village visit. 5 nights visiting my good friend Bharat's and his wife's villages, both up in the hill country about an 7 hour bus ride from Kathmandu.

I was warmly welcomed, special food was cooked, and one of the chickens even met an unfortunate (but predictable) end for our sakes.

Leaving the city pollution, anonymity and busyness was very nice, and Bharat's family and I had lots of time to do some serious catching up after 10 years since my last visit.

I did have a few waves of culture shock, mind you, and fiercely missing my wife's presence didn't help. Culture shock: when your intestines are rebelling, you've eaten nothing but rice and lentils for several days, you barely speak the language, the only washing tap is visible for miles around, and everyone insists on spitting at least once every 5 minutes. But not so bad really.

Photos... check them out.

Note to Self....

Cuddling up to a hot water bottle may cause minor burns

Geographic Irony

In search of curtains and frames to make this home look good:

• I travelled all over the city,
• I got lost on a busy street in a traffic jam as the shops were closing... in the dark... and alone... with most taxis refusing to take me to my destination... Argh!
• I found that a day outside in KTM makes your nails and inside your eyes black. yuck!
• I realized walking around Kathmandu without good drinking water is a bad idea
• and I finally found everything I needed within a 5 minute walk from my place.

So... now our little 2 bedroom flat will look like a home for Clayton's return and for Emily's arrival.

As for Clayton, he's now in another little village with no electricity... and I think the dhal bhat twice a day (picture), everyday, is starting to take its tole. On Monday night, we'll be eating good australian food at a new 'posh' restaurant to help his culture shock.

Absence

As is evident in my last post, I have time on my hands and no English editor. Clayton is away for 5 days to Archalbot, a friend's village. On the phone, he tells me they will be killing a chicken in part in honor of his visit. He also warns me that there is only one very visible public tap of running water for the whole community... in the middle of the town... After 5 days, I'll be ready with a scrub and soap!

In his absence, I'm trying to prepare our place for Emily, from England, who will be passing through Kathmandu for work next week - a very fortunate coincidence. I'm also trying not to be too pathetic... being here has, in all humility, significantly increased my reliance on Clayton.
One happy event though is the safe arrival of Carol, here in a sari at our Bollywood party in Toronto. She will be working at Green Pastures Hospital for a year. She is here for a couple of days before she heads off to her new home in Pokhara.

It's great to see old friends in a strange place.

P.S. We will be putting up pics from our home etc... but we haven't been great at carrying the camera around... I'm sure Clayton will bring back fascinating pics from the village.

The Walk

As the kids are still responding in unison to their martial arts master nearby, my morning walk begins. My scarf is nicely placed over my head to keep my ears and neck warm. My hands are nestled in the end of my warm sweater. The terrain varies greatly. It ranges from dirt paths bordered by high brick walls with garbage here and there, to paved roads with higher density traffic involving large cars, motorcycles, loaded bikes and fellow pedestrians. One consistent characteristic is unevenness below my toes... wherever it is in Kathmandu, flexibility is a necessary trait for feet.

My head is usually looking down as I zigzag through this obstacle course, but not enough, mind you, to miss the interesting people I can meet on this path. Yesterday, I first came across Martin on his bike. He is a long-term INF staff, the mind behind many of INFs high quality promotional materials. A little later, I watch an elderly man with only one eye artfully manage the rocks and rubble with a worn stick. In a little shortcut, I see a young woman whom I recognize. I ask out loud: “Tapailai chinchu hoina?” (I know you right?)... well I was right, she was a certified medical assistant student in Ghorahi, who listened on to my lengthy rants about infection control on burn patients and giggled as I entertained sick patients and children with my (not so present) Nepali dancing skills. She was just visiting some friends for a couple of days, and there she was on my walk to work! As I come close to work, I pass by two little ganesha shrines... mothers, children, taxi drivers, business men all come and pay their respect with red powder as they head to their next planned activity, hoping for good luck.

After a long day at work, the walk home is different. The air is warmer and dirtier. As I close my teeth together, there comes the gritty sound of dust and dirt. My scarf is no longer around my head in a ‘Mary Magdalena’ type of pose, but over my mouth and nostrils to stop the larger dust particles from creating havoc in my lungs. No wonder Kathmandu is one of the most polluted cities around! There is honking from all sides. It seems to be a gesture to signify one’s motorized presence, but without any expectation of action. They beep, not because I’m in the way... but just because...

I walk pass many Hindu gods... Today, I noted a little shrine to Krishna, which had written upon it: Pollution causes Cancer. I wonder where that came from. School girls walking home in uniform, builders digging a foundation of a new house with a slightly off radio on, stray dogs all over who don’t seem to care about anything...

All of this is part of a 20 minute walk to and from work

Gender and social marketing

A billboard in the country side - representing the wide gender gap in Nepal.

It reads: "Will she be able to run with all those burdens, and still win the race?"

24 hours

24 hours later... it seems my husband is not a klutz after all! or else I have an iron stomach!
Either possibility is a good thing.

I may have poisoned my wife

You know the moment...

You're eating a lovely meal with your wife when you suddenly suspect that (by force of habit) you may have filled your water glasses with highly contaminated tap water instead of the filtered water? And then you glance at her half-empty glass and your still-full one? Sure you do.

Sigh... the next 24 hours will tell.

Blue Blooded Traffic

The sirens were clearly coming closer. As I looked over the back seat, I could see flashing lights coming from big black land-rovers. In the end of work traffic in Kathmandu, these three cars zigzagged to advance in traffic. A friend was artfully driving Clayton and I through maddening traffic to a communion service with fellow expats. As he saw this line of cars coming, his face became stern: “It’s the King’s son”. The cars approached and clearly wanted everyone to stop and make way for them. The traffic was so bad that they had to stop right beside up. At least 7 men ran out of the cars with ear pieces in place and pastel colored jackets on. Not the body building type – just the typical long body 30-year-old Nepalis. They were running around frantically trying to communicate to the army post ahead to make some space for this little convoy. The

middle car, a luxurious black car, had a young woman at the back messaging on her cell phone – I don’t know who she was… but evidently from the special blood line. As soon as the traffic started to move, their cars moved and the men ran to jump in to their vehicles. At that moment, the last land rover’s back door slammed into our car as it was opened… twice… Our friend started screaming: “Mero Gaadi (my car)! Mero Gaadi!” We were all flustered, but the convoy didn’t care.

As we kept on riding, our friend was still dealing with what happened, wondering if his car would have the scars from the royal encounter. He said that if it was anyone else, he would press charges, but he’s afraid of the Royal bunch. He also explained that he would have been much more lenient in his driving and would have made way if it had been the present governing bodies… but the royal family… that’s another matter…

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The royalty in Nepal have seen better days. The last decade could be seen as a real bloodline ship-wreck. In 2001, Crown Prince Dipendra (Clayton received a tikka from him in 1997!) shot 11 members of the royal family including the ruling King and Queen, who were well-loved. He then shot himself, but was declared King during his brief coma before he died. Following this, the present monarch, King Gyanendra (Picture), took the crown. In the last years, in the midst of the Maoist conflict, the King dissolved the government twice, the last time being right after my departure in February 2005. In the last year, the Maoist rebels have been integrated into the governing system. Only a few weeks ago, on Christmas Eve, all the governing parties and the Maoists agreed to abolish the monarchy… and instead of a Hindu Kingdom, Nepal will become a federal Republic later this year.

_______________________________________________________

All this to say… One drive in the busy streets of Kathmandu can be quite the insightful experience…

Romantic Kathmandu

He entered the room by the soft glow of emergency fluorescent lighting. The crushed Kleenex next to her pillow called him to bed. As he stripped off his long johns, his LED headlamp flashed over her face and his eyes flicked to her powder-blue heavy cotton pyjamas. She slowly removed her earrings and set them next the hot pink plastic bedside lamp.

As he climbed into bed, a whiff of volatile organic chemicals streaming from a newly purchased hot water bottle still off-gassing stole from beneath the layers of mismatched comforters. “My you smell nice”, he remarked. A dog barked alluringly in the distance as a two-stroke engine puttered by. Another romantic night in Kathmandu had begun...

ZZZZZZ

3 am... body says awake! Clayton is also in and out of that needed land of sleep. ARGH

Contrasting Nepali lives

Dogs are presently having barking matches in our backyard, car honking streams into our windows from all sides, and traveling fruit/veggie vendors call out at our corrugated metal entry way... As in all aspects of life, living in KTM is a whirlwind of sounds... When Clayton noted that he heard the Hindi ritual of 'internal cleansing' (better known as forced retching) this morning, I reminisced about from my time in Ghorahi and I honestly felt the pang of missing that very different land.

Kathmandu is SO very different from the rural Nepali life. As my boss says, KTM is a world apart from anywhere else in Nepal. Ghorahi had at most three residents who owned cars, whereas here people spend their whole salary on the purchase of a car. Ghorahi had strict rules for women's dress (favoring traditional dress of a certain length), whereas only a handful of my colleagues here wear kurta suruwal or saris. Nepali pronouns are used differently in KTM, where more intimate versions are used more readily.

On a professional note, it is fascinating to see 'real life' public health. My team is presently working towards engaging the needed stakeholders for our project on the private health sector... NFHP is so proactive at identifying and promoting buy-in from all sectors. Their linkages with the government are impressive. I was amazed that NFHP ensures appropriate channels for the education of parliamentarians, as a way of preventing devastating public health decisions from lack of information. First impressions being what they are, I am really impressed. Although my work appears well beyond my present capabilities (maybe understandable after 4hr night of sleep), I know that I will learn tons.

Circadian dysfunction and frickin' cold

So at 2:15am, both of us randomly woke up and haven't returned to dreamland since. Unless you count my day of dreaming of indoor temperatures that move into the double digits.

Concrete has an astonishing heat capacity, which means that even though it peaked at 25 C outside, I'm still typing this in my jacket. Wrong, wrong, wrong. Oh well.

I picked up a UPS today so that I can keep internet even during power cuts and also tasted the best samosa ever, so the day actually turned out pretty decently. It's my job now to keep C-A awake for the next 2.5 hours before we're permitted to sleep. Brr.

"Load Shedding"

n. sing. - cheerful euphemism for the power cuts that occur daily in Nepal, especially in Kathmandu. Lasts from 20 minutes to 10 hours. Necesitates generators in restaurants, or anywhere else that pitch blackness is not conducive to business. Ke garne?

______________________________________________________

Jetlag successfully avoided, or almost. Kathmandu polluted and bustling with taxis, motorcycles, vendors, and stray dogs. Home is nice and even has hardwood floors in part, which is appreciated when the indoor temperature goes below 5 degrees. Cable tv and phone - unexpected bonuses. Internet at dial-up speed, for T1 prices.

First day of work for C-A - computer is set up and Nepali counterpart, Indu, is very nice. Not quite sure what my work will look like... but it seems I will be in the field sometimes!!! YEAH!!!

Clayton surprised me with my comfort drink after a day's work - a brisk gin & tonic! Cheers!

Leaving in 26 hours!

So Clayton and I will be bloggers... This all seems quite geeky. I guess birds of a feather do flock together. We are presently drinking a good bottle of red wine, not knowing whether our tastes will match Nepal's wine imports. I definitely want to stay away from "local wine"...

So we hope to keep you all updated on our life in Nepal through this blog! Hopefully, the internet will cooperate... caus' if it doesn't we will be very sad campers!
So here are two pics from our previous Nepali life... 11 years ago for Clayton and 4 for me!

My only comment is that some of us have changed more than others!